What is Chainstitch Embroidery?

Chainstitch embroidery is a type of stitch in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. It can be done by hand or by machine. My expertise is in machine chainstitch.

In 1865, Antoine Bonnaz invented the first chainstitch embroidery machine, whereas prior to then all chainstitch embroidery was done by hand. Ercole Cornely expanded on Bonnaz's invention, and renamed it the Cornely machine. In 1911, Singer Manufacturing released their model of the Cornely called the Singer 114W103.

The machines make it possible to create ornate embroidery in a fraction of the time it takes to do it by hand. In the latter half of the 20th century, computerized embroidery machines were introduced and are the most common machines used by textile manufacturers.

Today, there is limited education as well as limited supply of these industrial chainstitch machines, but their output is beloved. Western wear has kept the medium alive and nowadays you may see some of your favorite musicians sporting custom chainstitch embroidered jumpsuits, suits, jackets. Myself and few talented, meticulous craftspeople are committed and obsessed with the art.

  • Mauzer Chainstitch Machine

    This is a modern industrial chainstitch machine that I obtained directly from the manufacturer in 2020. She is a beautiful emerald green (with sparkles). From learning how to thread, to adjusting tension, and perfecting my thread paths....this is the machine I cut my teeth on.

  • Hand Cranked

    All chainstitch embroidery machines are steered with a handcrank underneath the machine. These machines have a free-motion walking foot. When I say "I am the computer" I mean that the movements are coming from my brain and my body. I steer ever stitch by hand.

  • Singer 114W103

    The latest addition to my studio is an antique Singer 114W103. You can see her origin story here. Her serial number indicates that she was manufactured prior to 1940 and she has all her original Simanco parts. This machine has seen multiple states and multiple celebs!

Want to see live embroidery in action? Check out my events calendar.